ask Dave West: The Jewelry Expert

On-Line Diamond Interview

I recently received an e-mail from a journalism student looking to do an article on jewelry sales online. Laura had some great questions that are well worth posting. So with Laura's permission, here is her original e-mail and my answers.

  Dear David,

I am a senior journalism student at California State University, Northridge, and I am currently working on an article (for grade not for print) about the boom of online sales of engagement rings. I was wondering if I would be able to ask you a few questions on the topic? I would like to include your views in my article.

Below are the questions I would like to ask you if you would like to help me out.

 
1. In my research I discovered that independent jewelry shops rely heavily on the sale of engagement rings as their main source of revenue. What has been the effect on independent jewelry shops since Blue Nile, and others, have opened online websites where people can purchase engagement rings that are less expensive but are the same cut, carat, color etc?

Independents have certainly lost sales to online diamond retailers, however online diamonds sales, while growing, still represent a relatively small part of the growing engagement ring market in the US. And while it may appear that online retailers are offering the same ring for less – they often are not. Diamonds are not the commodity that some would have people believe. By that I mean that two diamonds of similar cut, color, clarity and caret weight are not necessarily equally beautiful. I have looked at more engagement rings that where purchased online than I care to count and while as a general rule (there have been some frightening exceptions), when purchased from a reputable company customers are getting what they paid for - I have, however, yet to see a customer who got the best they could have for their money. The difference is always significant.   

2. Has the popular rise of online jewelry stores affected bigger chains like Tiffany, Zales etc?

I'm sure it has- but to what degree I cannot say. Most of the majors also have effective online stores to compliment their traditional operations – I would think it has been a benefit because their customers too have the best of both worlds at their disposal. This is also true of many independent operations as well.


3. What is the difference in mark up on an engagement ring that would sell in an independent store to one that would sell on Blue Nile?

Markups depend on many factors and are going to vary between different retailers. This is true both for online stores as well as independents. Since most online stores sell “al a carte” vs all inclusive - the way most independents do – the difference is can be insignificant to none at all when its all added up.


4. Buying an engagement ring is one of the most important purchases a man (or couple) will ever make. Apart from the price, why do you think some people are happy to buy, without seeing the actual ring they are purchasing, such an important (and expensive) item?

I have to say that this had perplexed me for quite a while. Having been in this business for 25 years I have to admit I never saw it coming. You have to understand that I have never, nor do I know any jeweler who has ever brought any diamond without first looking at it!
That said I think there are several reasons.
• Most important is that many people have brought into the premise that a diamond is a commodity and diamonds of similar grading are of equal beauty and value. There is also the perception that an independent laboratory report, or “cert”, especially from the GIA, is a guarantee of that beauty and value. This is a fundamental misunderstanding of both the grading systems purpose and the limitations of and the reason for an independent grading report. However misguided - these perceptions are what make online diamond sales possible.
• For years the industry has been plagued with jewelry retailers selling by using misleading tactics and false discounting, which has confused the customer and eroded the faith and confidence of the public in the value of diamonds. Throw in uneducated and bad behavior by sales associates, poor service, shoddy jewelry and the list goes on, it is no wonder that jewelers are no longer perceived, and in many cases for good reason, as professionals that can be trusted.
• Control – I think the internet gives the buyer a feeling of being in control of the situation, instead of having to rely on someone else. There is also a level of comfort in making your decision based on angles, percentages, numbers and letters. It takes the subjectivity out of the equation and makes it like purchasing a car – compare the stats, compare the price. It is the worst possible way to buy a diamond – but I can understand it.    

5. Do you think that buying an engagement ring online takes a bit of the romance out of the whole process?

Absolutely! Just like every woman is an individual – every diamond is an individual. Believe it or not diamonds will “talk to you”. I can look at hundreds of wonderfully beautiful diamonds and a few will stand out to me and talk. This is nothing you can quantify or put on a chart – it is all about individual beauty.
For someone to take time, to look at and compare diamonds, searching for that perfect one – that to me, is the ultimate expression of love.   

6. Do sales associates at retailers, in particular, Tiffany, earn any commission on engagement ring sales? The men I have interviewed say that they opted to buy an engagement ring online after having a negative experience with a sales associate - the name Tiffany popped up numerous times.

It depends on the retailer – some associates are on commission and some are not. I do not know about Tiffany’s – but it is not the first time I have heard the complaint.
As I said earlier – bad behavior on the part of sales associates is a problem; I‘m not sure that being on commission is the only cause.
When shopping for an engagement ring you are really shopping for a jeweler as much as a ring. If you are faced with a negative experience I always recommend you keep shopping – there are many excellent jewelers out there who will make the buying experience exceptional. It may take some work - but the right jeweler will transform the process into what it should be – a wonderful enjoyable experience with results that will exceed your expectations. You can’t get that online.   

7. Is the increase of online sales of engagement rings only in America or is this trend occurring around the world?

I would guess it is, but I am only familiar with the US market.

8. What do you forecast for the future of the online engagement ring market?

I think it will continue to grow for a few more years at least – but I am already seeing some signs of a backlash as more and more people realize that while the internet (like everything) has its advantages - it also has some serious disadvantages when it comes to the purchase of fine jewelry – I deal with the fallout every day.
An engagement ring is not only a very major purchase – unlike any other- it also symbolizes a couples love and commitment, the best results always come with the help and guidance of a trained professional.   

Thank you so much for taking the time out to answer my questions. I am very excited to write this article and will happily email you a copy when it is complete.
 
Thanks again,
Laura

Gold and Platinum Prices

The recent and dramatic price increases in both the gold and platinum has not, as yet, been fully felt by the consumer as retailers and manufactures both work through older inventory purchased at lower market prices.

With the coming of the New Year, however, the full effect of higher precious metals prices will begin to be felt as retailers replace inventory.

With the increased pressure on both manufactures and retailers to keep the cost of fine jewelry as low as possible there is going to be an even greater temptation for some to lower the quality and amount of materials and workmanship even further in an attempt to appear like a “great buy” is being offered.

It is more important than ever that the customer do their research and be aware of the quality of what they are purchasing. I hate nothing more than having to tell a customer that their “deal” is in reality money poorly spent.

Because fine jewelry often does not have a brand name and because very subtle differences, not apparent to the untrained eye, can mean huge differences in value; fine jewelry has been a playground for those who wish too deceive for years.

Here are a few tips that I hope will be of help.

• Be extremely wary of any discount above 20% , any claim of selling “wholesale” or any sales pitch claiming the item is worth substantially more than you are asked to pay – it’s not.

• Question the perception that jewelry is somehow a better buy in the NY Diamond district, the internet, the Caribbean, etc. - its not.

• Ask what the return and service policies are BEFORE you buy. NEVER buy form a company that will not offer a return policy or service their product.

• Unless it is a jeweler you know and trust – always pay with a credit card.

• Shop only at reputable stores with a trained and knowledgeable staff.

• Compare similar jewelry in different price points and ask questions about the difference in value.

• NEVER buy from a pushy salesperson or presentation.

• No matter how matter how good the deal sounds always remember this old saying –

   You get what you pay for.

Until next time - that is how I see the world of jewelry from Rochester NY
 

White Gold

I have been receiving some great questions and comments recently and while some are very specific to the individuals writing me, others point out issues and ask questions that have become common and apply to everyone. As I did earlier in the month I am posting a question with my response.

I routinely field e-mails and we have customers in the store asking why their white gold jewelry is "turning color". If you are considering purchasing white gold jewelry, especially rings, as an alternative to platinum, you should read this.

Dave,

My husband purchased and engagement ring for me about 11 months ago. I started wearing it and after two months it turned yellow. I read the article on your website and I am trying to make sense of all this. Some places (Tiffany & Co., local Jeweler , friends) are saying that white gold should not turn yellow period. Others are saying that it will. I am Disgusted that my ring is turning yellow repeatedly and I want a refund, however, the company that it was purchased at, Blue Nile, tries to tell me that it will turn even if it is only 2 months. I have called and complained about it over and over and each person has something different to say. I just want to know the truth?! Should I fight for a refund or give in and keep my yellow ring and re-plate it every two months for the rest of my life? It just seems ridiculous to pay that much for something only for it to turn colors.

Please help!

Thank you,

Hello,

I am sorry to hear of your frustrations. Your problem has become a common one and regretfully its origins come from, as always, a lack of full disclosure to the customer at the time of sale. I hope I can be of help to you trying to make sense of what happened.

First let me explain a little bit about gold. Gold is a metal element (Au on the periodic table) that is yellow in color. Gold and copper are the only two metals that have a color other than white or gray. When you buy gold jewelry it is usually a gold alloy of some kind and its quality, or amount of gold in the alloy is expressed in “karats”. 24k or 24karat is pure gold (999.99%). 18k is an alloy with 18 parts pure gold with 6 parts other metals for a total of 24. 14k is 14 parts pure gold with 10 parts other metals and so on. Karat can also be expressed in parts out of a thousand; pure gold being 999.99 (1000), 18k being 750, 14k being 585 etc. As a very general rule – yellow gold alloys have equal amounts of copper and silver added. An example: 18k yellow gold = 18 parts gold, 3 parts copper and 3 parts silver for a total of 24 parts. It is possible to change the color of a gold alloy by changing the amount or the metals used in the alloy. Rose or pink gold has more copper in the alloy and the gold has a rich pinkish color to it. Green gold has more silver for a slightly greenish yellow color. White gold will have metals added that tend to “bleach” the yellow color out of the alloy. Nickel, zinc, platinum, palladium are some of the metals that can be used to bleach the color out of the gold alloy.

I tell my customers to think of white gold in this way; you take a yellow shirt and put it in the wash with a lot of bleach multiple times. In the end you will probably bleach most of the yellow out of that shirt and end up with, at best, a cream or light yellow colored shirt, you will not however, ever, end up with a truly white shirt.

Now to your problem: white gold is traditionally plated with rhodium (a white metal that is a relative of platinum) and when brand new a white gold ring can be indistinguishable from a platinum ring to the eye. This is misleading because the actual color of the white gold ring is not a true white, as it appears to be, but a more creamy color. The true color of the metal becomes noticeable, as you well know, after the ring has been worn awhile and the plating begins to wear off.

To further complicate matters there is a great deal of difference in the quality and “whiteness” of white gold alloys even though the karat quality may be exactly the same. The better quality white gold alloys tend to have a whiter color so that when the rhodium wears it is not as noticeable (there are even some newer alloys that don’t need rhodium to have a white look). The down side to these whiter gold alloys is that they are expensive and some can be difficult to work with. The lower quality white gold alloys generally have a more yellow cast to them and the color difference is very noticeable when rhodium plating wears away.

Having not seen the ring I cannot say for certain but my guess is that you have a fairly yellowish 18k white gold alloy. I cannot say why Tiffany’s or your local jeweler did not seem to be familiar with, or choose not to explain fully this problem, as we see it frequently. With platinum prices continuing to increase white gold jewelry sales have grown dramatically over the last few years and this problem has become widespread.

I do not blame you for being upset, I would be mad as hell, but I am not sure if you have much recourse. To me the issue is one of full disclosure; your husband was not informed that white gold is routinely plated with rhodium to improve its color and that the plating is not necessarily permanent. This is not uncommon as many stores - both bricks and mortar and internet - especially the large volume, price only focused companies, are not disclosing the issue to their customers.

At this point you have three choices: you can continue to complain to Blunile, hoping that in the interest of customer relations they will offer you a refund or allow you to exchange the ring for a platinum or palladium mounting; you could continue to have the ring re plated (although since the ring needs to be re finished each time it is plated the ring will wear out faster than it normally would); or you can have it remounted in a platinum, palladium or at the very least a better quality white gold mounting that won’t show the degree of color difference that I get the feeling yours currently does.

Dave

Platinum Myths

Just the other day I received a comment from a reader wondering about “some of the popular notions circulating about platinum”; she asked some good questions and I decided my response should be a general post.

“1. Myth: Platinum is the whitest precious metal. Truth: Most antique platinum ring are not white due to a patina — an apparent euphemism for "oxidize" — which stems, in part, from the fact that platinum is very easy to scratch. The whitest metal with the highest overall optical reflectivity is SILVER — something that anyone who has held a silver herringbone chain next to platinum or white gold may have noticed. Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silver.”

While this is strictly true – most discussions regarding the merits, or not, of platinum are held in the context of very fine jewelry to secure and enhance the beauty of diamonds and other precious gems. While the availability of finer silver jewelry is on the rise, often times combined with gold, colored gems and even diamonds, silver is not strong enough or durable enough to be practical as a consideration when deciding what metal is best to set a large diamond or other precious gem in.

“2. Myth: Platinum doesn't wear; it just shifts or plows aside. Truth: If platinum "never wears" as is the oft-repeated marketing claim, there should be no antique platinum rings that require a new shank. There is a thriving industry that specializes in refurbishing worn antique jewelry — most of it pre-WWII and most of it platinum.”

Platinum, like any metal, does eventually wear. That said – platinum is by far the most durable and lasting of all the jewelry metals. As you pointed out there is an thriving industry refurbishing pre WWII platinum jewelry, which at this point is 50 – 60 + years old and much of which has seen a lot of regular wear over time. This kind of useful life is rare in gold jewelry with the exception of pieces that have only seen light wear over the years.

“3. Myth: Platinum is hypoallergenic. The term "hypoallergenic" is an over-generalized misnomer. According to a January 2006 edition of JCRS, a leading jewelry underwriter, platinum stamping is not regulated by the FTC in the US, and some manufacturers have begun to use lower grade platinum that is visually identical but more brittle (and ostensibly more likely to create rashes due to contact dermatitis). This might explain the reports of platinum owners becoming "sensitized" to the metal over time. See: http://www.finishing.com/337/77.shtml for anecdotal reports of allergic reactions to Platinum. See: http://jcrs.com/newsletters/2006/2006_01.htm in which it is stated: "The FTC Guides do not mention the new platinum alloys. … All of this raises the old issue of DISCLOSURE. Consumers equate platinum with highest quality. Even if a manufacturer does mark platinum and alloy content, most consumers will not recognize the significance of particular alloys or of the ppt markings." The JCRS goes on to recommend: "• the jewelry should bear a purity mark giving platinum and alloy content; and • the consumer should be told the affect of the alloys used — in particular, that diluted platinum does not hold set stones as well and is more susceptible to damage"”

With the introduction of low quality, lower content platinum alloys it is true that one can no longer assume that platinum jewelry will be hypoallergenic. I fully agree that this is an issue in need of full disclosure to the consumer at the time of sale. Unfortunately these lower grade platinum alloys exist for one reason only and that is price. The companies selling this sort of product are interested only in convincing the customer that they are providing “better deal” than they, in truth, actually are. These jewelers live to deceive and operate in the grey areas of the law. While one can expect the product itself to be properly stamped with the purity content of the alloy – it is regretfully unrealistic to expect full disclose of this nature at the time of sale. To do so would be to admit that the “deal” being offered it not what it would seem. It is another example of the need on the part of the consumer to educate themselves and to choose a jeweler based on their knowledge, ethics and integrity. 

Untill next time that is how I see the world of jewelry from Rochester, NY   

Opal or Tourmaline - October Birthstones

Tourmaline

Known only in the Mediterranean region for much of history, it was not until the early 18th century that the Dutch brought Tourmaline gemstones to Western and Central Europe. Tourmaline gets its name from the Sinhalese word “turamali” for mixed. The Dutch choose an apt name for no other gem. Not even corundum occurs in the variety of shades or combination of shades of color that tourmaline gemstones do. Tourmalines are found in such a wide range of colors they are often mistaken for other gems whose color they are mimicking. Fine pure green tourmaline can be every bit as beautiful as the emerald it is confused with. Yellow, red and pink tourmaline can look just like fancy sapphires and be just as stunning. Tourmaline, the October birthstone, is unique in that it often displays more than one color. Like alexandrite, some tourmalines can change their body color from daylight to artificial light. Tourmaline gemstones even have applications in science; they will develop a polarized electrical charge when heated or compressed.

With and almost limitless spectrum of hues, the most recognized colors for tourmalines are shades of red and green, with the most desirable colors being an intense pink or green. The October birthstone also occurs in shades of blues to yellows, in almost any color or combination of colors that one can think of. It is actually rather rare for a tourmaline crystal to display just one color. More often than not, when examined closely, a tourmaline actually displays varying shades or even multiple colors. Tourmaline gemstones grow in long linear crystals that often will have two or more colors. Sometimes the boundaries between colors are soft and gradual shades, other times they are distinct and display two or more strong colors. These bi colored, multi color or parti colored tourmalines are particularly prized. A bi colored tourmaline gemstone with a strong red to pink colored center surrounded by a green border is referred to as a “watermelon tourmaline”. When the colors of a tourmaline crystal are stacked one on top of another they are called a “Papageios” or a “Rainbow tourmaline”. The ultimate in tourmaline's vast display of hues, however, is the “Paraiba Tourmaline”. Only very recently discovered in 1989 in Paraiba, Brazil these tourmalines display the most stunningly vivid, brilliant, blues and greens ever seen. Neon green, electric blue, sizzling turquoises are some of terms used to describe these very rare, exceedingly valuable, breathtakingly beautiful gemstones.

Just about any color of October's birthstone can be found in Brazil, which is a major source. Some exquisite tourmalines are also being mined in Southern California near San Diego. Other sources include Sir Lanka, Madagascar and Africa. Historically Maine has been and important source for tourmaline, but only small quantities are currently being produced.

Tourmaline gemstones are heat treated or irradiated to improve their color. Some treated tourmalines color can fade if exposed to high heat or prolonged exposure to intense light, but generally the treatment is stable. Red tourmalines are often quite included and some have been treated with resin injected into surface reaching fissures to lessen the visibility of the inclusions. Care should be taken with these gems. Whatever amazing color you choose, tourmalines are hard gemstones that resist scratching and breaking. Care should be taken, however, to avoid sharp blows and sudden temperature changes. Tourmalines, especially reds and pinks, should not be cleaned using steam or ultrasonic cleaners. Your Tourmaline jewelry can be cleaned with commercial jewelry cleaner or a mild soap and water along with an old toothbrush to clean the setting as well. Always rinse and dry your jewelry after cleaning.

Opal

Shakespeare mentions Opal as “the queen of gems” because it held within it the colors of all the other  gems. The Roman historian Pliny said of Opal “the fire of the carbuncle, the brilliant purple of the amethyst and the sea green color of the emerald, all shining together in incredible union”. The Arabs believed Opal got its fire from the flashes of lightning that brought it to earth. Since antiquity Opal had been a symbol of hope, until in the 19th century when the gem played a role in the novel Anne of Geierstein, by Sir Walter Scott. The story tells of an Opal owned by the heroine that would burn a fiery red when she was angry and turned to ashen grey when she died. It took Queen Victoria, giving Opals as wedding gifts, to lift the curse. Today Opal has regained it rightful place as the gem of hope. Like the rainbow after a thunderstorm, Opals display of colors speaks of hope.

The name Opal comes from the Greek word “opallos” which means to see a change of color. Opal is made up of many layers of tiny spears of silica which diffract differently. This diffraction of light creates a dramatic rainbow of color within the gem. This phenomenon is called play of color. Opal occurs in many varieties and range from transparent to opaque. The most well known is white Opal, which has a light semi-transparent to opaque background and displays varying degrees of pastel colors. Crystal Opal has a colorless background with some play of color that lets the light pass through it. Jelly Opal or water Opal are colorless transparent to semi transparent with little or no play of color. Fire Opal, or Mexican Opal is transparent to semi transparent Opal with a yellow, orange, to red or brown background color that does not always have any play of color. Cherry Opal is fire Opal with a strong red body color. Boulder Opals have a layer of the precious Opal still combined with the ironstone in which the Opal forms. The most sought after of all the Opals are those with a dark background and vivid splashes of brilliant colors known as black Opals. A black Opal with ah opaque dark grey to black background and an evenly distributed rainbow display of intense vivid colors, is a very rare and valuable gem.

The world’s most important source for Opal is the deserts of Australia. With deposits difficult to locate and spread over vast regions of the desert Opal mining is still done on a small, individual, scale often with just hand tools. Mexico is the major source for fire Opal. Brazil and the US are also sources.

Opals are very delicate gems. They are best mounted in earrings and pendants. When mounted in a ring or bracelet very special care should be shown when wearing them. Because Opals have a high water content they should be kept away from heat and strong light as it can dry them out. Opals can draw moisture from the air and should not be kept for long periods in dehumidified environments like bank vaults. Opals should never be cleaned, and should be kept away from contact with detergents or chemicals. Steam and ultrasonic cleaners should never be used. Most commercial jewelry cleaners should also not be used, unless specifically designed for delicate gems.

Diamond Pricing and Negotiating

My friend Michael Willingham the “Diamond Coach” has a great post on diamond pricing and negotiating. It is worth paying close attention to what he is saying. Mike has many years of experience in the diamond and jewelry industry; in his current capacity as a adviser to those who seek help with their diamond purchases and not as someone who is actively selling diamonds Mikes opinions are especially valuable.

So until next time – that is how I see the world of jewelry from Rochester, NY

Ice Road Truckers

I’m a History Channel junkie – it is the best idea somebody at the cable company ever had. So one evening this summer I see a trailer about trucking heavy freight over frozen lakes; it sounded interesting so why not watch for a while. Ice Road Truckers is now “must see TV” at my house – I am even watching the reruns - which I never do.

If you don’t already know Ice Road Truckers is a reality show about the truckers who move heavy fright over the frozen lakes, in the dead of winter, to supply the diamond mines of Canada’s Northwest Territory. It is the only time of year the really large and heavy equipment needed to mine diamonds can be moved; the mines are so remote there are no roads and the rest of the year supplies have to be flown in.

In earlier posts I have talked about my love for Canadian diamonds, they are special. We are currently dealers for "Caprice Canadian Diamonds" which come from the Ekati mine as well as “Arctic Love” which come from the Diavik mine.

I’ve always been fascinated at what goes into diamond mining – it not simple or inexpensive and when it is done with an eye on the environment, as it is in Canada, I find it truly amazing.

So while you are watching the guys haul tons of heavy freight on a road that is only a few inches of ice -keep these fun diamond facts in mind.

RARITY

It takes a million diamonds mined in order to obtain just one ONE carat diamond

If you take 1,000 piles of diamonds with 1,000 diamonds in each pile - you will only find one ONE carat diamond

1 pile of 1,000 diamonds takes more than a day to sort through - so it's a year endeavor to find one ONE carat diamond.

5 million diamonds are mined to find one single TWO carat diamond

80% of all diamonds mined are for industry, such as NASA, drills, etc., only 20% are gem quality

MINING

The only diamond mines known left are in Australia, Russia, and Africa and now Canada!

It would take 250 one-ton dump trucks full (1 mile long) to find one ONE carat diamond! That's 250 tons to find ONE ONE CARAT!

At the current rate of production, all diamond mines will be mined out in 40 years

Only one out of every 10 people have ever touched a 1 carat diamond

And some say diamonds have no value!

So until next time - that is how I see the world of jewelry from Rochester, NY   

Sapphire - September Birthstone

Sapphire has long been the gem of the heavens and sky. The Persians believed the world sat on a giant sapphire and its reflection colored the sky blue. Originating from the Greek word “sappheiros” which means blue, Sapphire has long been treasured as the ultimate in blue gems. The blue of sapphire can be the light fresh shade of the sky to a deep, vibrant, rich blue of indescribable beauty. Sapphire was thought to be the “true blue” gem and when given as a gift would bestow trust, honesty, loyalty and purity to the recipient. These qualities make sapphire a great choice for engagement rings. Sapphire was also thought to protect the owner from envy and would attract divine favor. Kings and Queens wore sapphire to protect them from harm.

The most sought after color for sapphire is a medium cornflower blue that has a soft almost velvety look to it. Any sapphire, however, with a vibrant shade of blue and a medium tone is very desirable. But sapphire is not just about blue. Sapphire is a member of the mineral species corundum. Corundum occurs in a stunningly wide range of colors and each color has an infinite number of shades. From the blues everyone thinks of, to greens, oranges, purples, violets, yellows, browns, black, grays, colorless and even shades of  pink to deep rich reds known as ruby. Sapphire and ruby are like fraternal twins. The red variety of corundum is called ruby, the blue variety is sapphire and all other colors of corundum are known as fancy sapphires. Although sapphire occurs in almost any color you can think of some are very rare and not always available in the marketplace. The most coveted of all the fancy sapphires is the reddish orange to pinkish orange shade called “padparadscha”. These extremely rare and extremely valuable sapphires are among the worlds most sought after gems.    

The Kashmir region of India is the traditional source for the highest quality sapphires. The medium cornflower blue of the very finest sapphires is often referred to as “Kashmir” in reference to this source; however the Kashmir region is not currently being mined due to its inaccessibility. Today sapphire is mined in Sir Lanka, Burma, Thailand, Montana, Australia and Africa. 

Sapphires are most always heat treated to improve their color. This treatment is very stable. Sapphires are exceptionally hard. Only diamonds hardness exceeds that of sapphire. Although it is not yet very common it also important to mention a newer enhancement process that artificially improves the surface color of paler sapphires by diffusion of beryllium. This process helps make a rich blue colored sapphire more affordable. Because it is a surface treatment however, should the sapphire ever need recutting or polishing the color could change.

What ever shade you choose Sapphires are very durable gems and with a little care their beauty will last for years. Sapphires are safe for steam and ultrasonic cleaners. They can also be cleaned with commercial jewelry cleaner or a mild soap and water along with an old toothbrush to clean the setting as well. Always rinse and dry your jewelry after cleaning.   

Interview with “The Diamond Coach”

Recently I was asked to give an interview on diamond certificates and buying paper for fellow blogger Mike Willingham, The Diamond Coach. Mike has just started up a great blog with a focus on diamonds. His information and advice is solid and I recommend you check it out at http://www.thediamondcoach.com/

Until next time that is how I see the world of jewelry from Rochester NY 

Peridot - August Birthstone

Peridot is a light yellow green to intense green gem that in recent years has often been overlooked, although its popularity has been on the increase. Peridot has, however, a very long and distinguished history. For over 3500 years Peridot has been a prince among gems. Peridot is mentioned in the book of Exodus as one of the gems in the high priest’s breastplate which was set with stones for the twelve tribes of Israel.  Known to and coveted by the ancient rulers of Egypt, Peridot was called “the gem of the sun”, because of its intense brightness. It was believed that one could not mine Peridot in the daylight because it was so bright it was invisible. In the dark Peridot was believed to give off its own light so miners could mark its location and come back in the day to collect the gem. The original source for Peridot is the island of Zebargad (the Arabic word for Peridot) which is in the red Sea off the coast of Egypt. Peridot has been mined on Zebargad (also known as St. John’s Island) as early as 1500B.C. The island not only had Peridot but also was populated with so many poisonous snakes that mining was dangerous. Pliny the Elder speaks of Zebargad as the “Serpent Isle” in his natural history. An Egyptian ruler finally had the snakes exterminated and kept the miners in total isolation on the island. Peridot was considered so valuable that the guards of the island where told to kill anyone approaching that was not authorized. The mines where kept secret until the seventeenth century.

The most desirable shade of color for Peridot is an intense brilliant green that can be best described as that of “new spring grass”. Although the light yellow green to olive shades of some Peridot can also be very attractive. Peridot also has a unique way of bending and splitting the light passing though it giving it a rich glow almost as if the gems where giving off its own light. It probably because of this characteristic that it was thought that if Peridot was set in gold it would drive away terrors of the night. Peridot that was strung on a donkey hair and worn on the left arm could ward away evil spirits. Peridot could dissolve enchantments and the wearer would enjoy happiness in marriage and freedom from insecurity.

Peridot in varying amounts can be found all over the world in volcanic regions. The Zebargad mines where very active from around 1906 to the end of WWII. Burma then became a major source. Much of the Peridot available today is mined at the San Carlos Apache Reservation in Arizona. Only the Apache Indians are allowed to mine this source.

 
Peridot is not generally treated. Peridot is very sensitive to heat. Sudden temperature changes should be avoided. Peridot should never be cleaned with ultrasonic or steam. Peridot can be cleaned with most commercial jewelry cleaners and mild soap and warm water is also very good along with an old, soft, toothbrush to gently clean the setting as well as the gem. Always rise and dry your jewelry after cleaning.