ask Dave West: The Jewelry Expert

Alexandrite or Pearl – June Birthstone

Alexandrite
Alexandrite is an extremely rare gem that has an amazing characteristic: it changes color, from a lush green in the daylight (or fluorescent light) to a deep rich red in incandescent light. Alexandrite is a member of the chrysoberyl family of gems, which is a prominent member of a group of gems known as phenomenal. Phenomenal gems are gems that display unique and rare characteristics. Phenomenal gems are valued for the quality of each gems individual characteristic. In the case of alexandrite it is the strength and degree of the color change. The dramatic change in color in a fine alexandrite is truly a wonder and it is absolutely phenomenal!

Alexandrite is a newcomer to the world of gems, not being discovered till 1830 during the reign of Alexander II. When Alexander came of age the new gem was named after him. The colors of alexandrite also resemble the colors of the Imperial Russian flag. Fine quality alexandrite is so rare that its original mine in the Ural Mountains only produced the gem for a few decades.

Today the major sources for alexandrite are Brazil, Sir Lanka and Russia. Russian alexandrite is still the most prized, but the quality of Brazilian alexandrite can be fine.

Alexandrite is not known to be enhanced. Alexandrite is quite durable and with normal wear its beauty will last for years. Alexandrite can be cleaned with commercial jewelry cleaners and are safe for ultrasonic and steam cleaners as well. A mild soap and warm water is also very good along with an old, soft, toothbrush to gently clean the setting as well as the gem. Always rise and dry your jewelry after cleaning.    

Pearls- natural and cultured
Since the beginning of time man has been captivated by the luxurious silky texture and iridescent quality of pearls. An ancient Chinese legend holds that pearls are created by the moon giving them a celestial glow and mystery. The Greeks believed that pearls where dew from the moon that the oysters collected at night when they floated to the surface. Persians thought that pearls where the tears of the gods. Some Muslims thought that pearls where Gods first creation. The Romans loved them. Columbus discovered pearls on his third voyage to the new world but kept his find secret. In 1500s Tutor England pearls where so popular that it is referred to as the “pearl age”. Queen Elisabeth I covered herself with them.

Pearls are an organic gem, created by a living animal, and are unique in that they are the only gem from the sea that requires no polishing or faceting to unlock their beauty.
Pearls are generally thought to be white, but like many gems they occur in a range of colors; champagne, pink, yellow, golden, lavender, grey and black to name a few.

Natural pearls are very rare and occur only by chance when a foreign object finds its way into the oyster. The oyster then covers the object with a wonderful coating of nacre, the mother of pearl. Because natural pearls are so difficult to find and then recover, for centuries they where very rare; they still are.
Most pearls available in the market today are cultured. The culturing of pearls is a relatively new art; the technique to make pearl culturing commercially viable being developed in Japan around 1900. Culturing consists of implanting a small shell bead or bit of an oyster’s mantle tissue in a host oyster and then returned to the water for a specific period of time. The oyster is later harvested and the oyster is opened up to reveal the bead or mantle tissue that has been coated with nacre and a wonderful cultured pearl is created. Since the 1920s cultured pearls have almost replaced natural pearls in the market place and have made the beauty of pearls affordable to most anyone.

The quality of cultured pearls is determined by the orient which is the amount of light refracted by the pearls nacre, the luster which is the shine and reflection of the pearls surface, and the spotting which are amount of blemishes on the surface. With pearl strands the regularity of the size shape and color of the pearls is also very important.

The major sources for cultured pearls are Japan, China, the South Seas, and the US.

Cultured pearls are often bleached to create an even color and also can be polished in a tumbler to improve their luster. They may also be dyed to improve color, or irradiated to produce “black” pearls.
Both cultured and natural pearls are very delicate. Pearls should always be the last thing you put on. Keep them away from perfumes, hair sprays and makeup. Chemicals can be absorbed into the pearls and affect their color. Pearls should also be kept separately form other jewelry to prevent scratching of the surface. Pearls should never be cleaned with an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Commercial jewelry cleaner also should also not be used unless it is specifically designed for pearls. The best method to clean pearls is a soft moist cloth.

David West Nytch CGA  www.westandcompany.com
        
       

Consumer Reports Magazine Knows that Jewelry is a "Tricky Buy" (for Bargain Shoppers)

by guest blogger, D-D Flannery

Many of you who read this blog regularly know Dave's, the author, style - he is all about educating people so that they can make an informed decision. I am sure that you have already picked up on that fact after reading his blog a few times. So did someone else... an editor of Consumer Reports Magazine.

Dave was approached by Tod Marks, senior editor of the magazine, who was putting together an article on buying jewelry and recognized that buying jewelry is indeed a "tricky buy." You can read Mr. Marks' article that will appear in the June issue of the magazine by clicking here.

Dave is mentioned in Consumer Reports where he suggests to avoid buying hugely discounted jewelry that is often presented by chain stores, some independents and the so called "wholesale" jewelers.

Even thought the article has some useful facts, I am disappointed that it did not go in further detail about discounted jewelry prices. It leaves the reader wondering whether or not to avoid jewelry sales all together, and / or avoid buying jewelry from big chain stores, or both. So let me try to clarify things a bit.

Chain stores are known for pricing jewelry at a premium so that they can promote big price slashing sales. In reality they are offering the items close to fair market value - basically "tricking" the customers into believing that they are getting a great deal and they end up paying more than they realize.  The discounted prices are sometimes tempting, however, it often ends up being to good to be true. The huge discounts are often on items of poor quality. This doesn't mean that you can't ever buy jewelry on sale, but shy away from the really BIG sales by the really BIG stores, and ANY claim huge savings should be viewed with suspicion.

The Internet is another shopping outlet that we need to maneuver carefully through, and the article touches on this briefly. Point blank  - You don't know what you are getting! And you could end up with a nightmare on your hands if you go to return or exchange it.

Clearly, this is an industry where "you get what you pay for."  Jewelry is not an item that you shop for the deal.

Emerald-May Birthstone

Emeralds rich green is the color of life; of spring. Emerald has long been held to be the gem of new life. Emerald’s green makes it the perfect birthstone for May, the month of new life. Emerald is a member of the Beryl family of gems and is closely related to Aquamarine and like Aquamarine it has a long and noble history. Emerald was the gem dedicated to Venus the goddess of love. It was thought that an Emerald would reveal a lover’s faithfulness. Cleopatra wore emeralds. Nero is said to have used a large emerald like a pair of sunglasses to view the gladiators at the coliseum. For thousands of years, from the Pharaohs of ancient Egypt, the Mongols of India, to the crown heads of Europe, emeralds have been coveted for their lush green hue.

  The emeralds of legend had many powers. Emerald gave the person who wore one the power to think clearly in the past as well as the present and to see the future. It also would improve ones memory, and give one the gift of eloquent speech. Emerald was also thought to bestow honesty and frugality. Emeralds could also be powdered and taken as medicine to prevent epilepsy.
Columbian emeralds have always been the worlds finest. When the Spaniards first discovered and conquered the Inca Empire in the 16th century, they not only stole all the gold they could get their hands on; they also plundered all the emeralds they could find. The Spaniards where unable however, to discover the source of the Inca’s emeralds until 1555, when the Muzo mine was stumbled across by accident.

The distinctive hue of an emerald is often thought to always be a pure green. Many fine emeralds however have a slightly bluish green to yellowish green hue, which like the many greens of nature can be remarkably beautiful. Emeralds typically have a broad range of internal clarity characteristics called inclusions. These inclusions are not considered a detriment unless they are so numerous as to make the emerald appear cloudy or large as to affect the gems durability. In some cases these inclusions can create a lovely pattern known as a jardin (French) or garden, and to some feel this pattern adds interest to the gem. An emerald without these inclusions is a very very rare and valuable gem. 

The major sources for Emeralds today are Columbia and Brazil. Emeralds are also found in Pakistan, Africa, Russia, Afghanistan and Australia.

Emeralds are almost always enhanced to improve their appearance. It is common to introduce natural or man made oils or fillers into an emerald’s inclusions to minimize their visibility. Often referred to as oiling the technique is thousands of years old. This sort of enhancement is not stable and can fade with time or when exposed to heat.

Emeralds are very delicate and care should be taken when ever they are worn or cleaned. The inclusions that are common in emeralds are sensitive to both sharp and glancing blows and sudden changes in temperature. Steam and ultrasonic cleaners should never be used. Most commercial jewelry cleaners should also not be used, unless specifically designed for delicate gems. A mild soap and warm water solution is very good along with an old, soft, toothbrush to gently clean the setting as well as the gem. Always rise and dry your jewelry after cleaning.

David West Nytch CGA  www.westandcompany.com     

A little bit about Gold

Gold has fascinated and held mans attention since before the dawn of civilization. Gold was known to and prized by humans in prehistory. Because gold occurs in its native form it may have been the first metal used for rituals and adornment. Gold objects have been found in the archaeological digs of the very earliest of known civilizations dating back more than 5000 years. Gold has always been used as a standard of value. As early as 1500BC gold was already a standard medium of international trade and the earliest known coins (gold) in the world date from around 670BC. In 1922 the undisturbed tomb of the young pharaoh Tutankhamen was discovered; inside archaeologists found the largest collection of gold and jewelry in the world. The treasure of Tutankhamen demonstrated the very advanced state of craftsmanship and goldsmithing techniques of the Egyptians in the second millennium BC.

Alchemy was the attempt to turn ordinary substances, such as lead, into gold. It was believed that the right interaction with a substance called the “philosopher’s stone” could produce gold. Although alchemists failed in their attempts, they did create an interest in how substances interact, leading to the birth of the modern science of chemistry.   

Long before the Spanish arrived in the new world the Pre-Columbian cultures of the Americas where producing amazingly sophisticated gold objects and had mastered the most challenging gold working techniques. Much of the Conquistador's interest in exploring the Americas was driven by stories of the incredible gold jewelry and ornamentation displayed by the Native American societies of Central America. Regrettably the Spanish melted down much of the gold objects they took and what we know of these peoples skill as goldsmiths comes from more recent excavations of grave sites.

During the ninetieth century the expansion of the western territories of the United States was accelerated by the discovery of gold. Although many western states had gold rushes the most remembered is the 1848 discovery of gold at Sutter’s Mill in California. When ever gold was discovered thousands of settlers risked life and limb to make long and dangerous journeys through what was then wild territory to reach the gold fields.

• Most all the gold ever mined is still in circulation in one form or another.
• Estimates suggest that all the gold in the world that has ever been refined would create a cube only 66 ft. a side.
• Gold is very rare. It makes up only five ten-millionths of the earths outer crust.
• Gold is the most ductile (drawn into a wire) and the most malleable (beaten into a sheet) metal known. A single once of gold can be beaten into a 300 square foot sheet. Gold can be drawn into a thread fine enough for embroidery.
• Pure gold is only slightly harder than your fingernail.
• Gold is more that nineteen times heavier than water.
• Gold is one of only two metals known that have a color other than white. Copper is the other.
• Gold does not rust, tarnish or corrode.
• Gold does not react with most chemicals. Exceptions are: chlorine, fluorine, aqua regia and cyanide. Gold will also dissolve in mercury.

Pure gold is so soft it can not withstand the abrasions of everyday wear. As a result gold is often alloyed with other metals to give it strength and durability. Common alloy metals are silver, copper, nickel, zinc and at times platinum or palladium. The amount of pure gold in an alloy is stated as either its karat or its fineness. The karat of a gold alloy is stated as the number of parts of pure gold out of 24. The fineness is stated as the number of parts of pure gold out of 1000. To give an example: 14k gold is fourteen parts pure gold and ten parts other metals for a total of 24 parts. The same 14k alloy may also be described by its fineness of 585 or five hundred and eighty five parts pure gold and four hundred and fifteen parts other metals for a total of 1000 parts, or approximately 58% gold.

            Fineness        Karat        % Gold
            990+              24             100
            916                22             91.67
            750                18             75
            585                14             58.3
            375                  9             37.5

Pure gold’s color is a rich, deep, soft, shinny yellow. When gold is alloyed with other metals not only does its strength and durability improve but its color changes as well. As a general guideline yellow gold alloys have equal mounts of cooper and sliver mixed with the gold. A warm pink or reddish color can be achieved by increasing the percentage of copper in the alloy creating “pink” or “rose” gold. A subtle green tint is achieved when the percentage of silver is increased creating “green” gold. With the exception of copper all other metals will tend to “bleach” or whiten color of gold when added to the alloy.

White gold was originally developed in the 1920s as an alternative to platinum. In recent years, due to the cost of platinum, white gold alloys have been gaining increasing popularity. White golds are not some different type of gold but true gold alloys, which have had most of the yellow color bleached out by the careful choice of alloy metals. There are two basic groups of white golds; those alloyed with nickel and those alloyed with palladium (or platinum). Both nickel and palladium (and platinum) are strong “bleachers” of gold with silver and zinc having less impact on color. Nickel white gold alloys tend to very hard and difficult to work while palladium or platinum white gold alloys tend to be very expensive. For economic reasons most commercial alloys of white gold tend to have a high percentage of nickel.
The high percentage of nickel in white gold alloys can lead to allergic reactions in some people, especially women. In response to this problem there are new nickel free white gold alloys being marketed that are using manganese as the bleaching metal.

   
There is no legal or industry standard (although one is being discussed) as to what constitutes a “white color” in white gold alloys. The lack of any clear standard along with the balancing act of color, cost and workability has lead to a wide range of colors in individual white gold alloys, many of which have a yellowish to brownish tint to them. The poor color of many white gold alloys has lead to the industry practice of plating the jewelry with rhodium to improve its appearance. Rhodium (along with palladium) is a member of the platinum family of metals and has a beautiful white color and wears well. Depending on the type of jewelry and how often it is worn, rhodium plating will last from just a few months to several years. Because the rhodium plating of white gold jewelry is so wide spread and rarely disclosed by the retailer, many consumers equate the color of rhodium to that of white gold. This often leads to confusion and dismay when, as the rhodium plating wears, their jewelry seems to be turning an “off-white” color. White gold jewelry can be re- rhodium plated. Re-plating requires the jewelry to be completely refinished and polished; a process that can diminish details and accelerate wear due to the abrasives used. Because small amounts of metal are removed each time jewelry is refinished it is recommended that re-plating be done only infrequently.

David West Nytch CGA  www.westandcompany.com

      

   

Palladium: The Other White Metal

Over the past few years the demand for fine jewelry in white precious metals continues to rise. Traditionally the customer has had two choices; Platinum or White Gold. While the demand for platinum jewelry remains strong, it can be price prohibitive with a current cost hovering around $1200.00 an ounce.

White gold has become the popular alternative. Although white gold is priced more agreeably, it has several drawbacks. First and foremost, white gold is not truly white; it has a slight yellow tint. Plating a white gold ring with rhodium (a relative of Platinum) has been the technique used to make the jewelry appear white. The problem is that the plating wears off in a short period of time, which often leads to customer complaints that their jewelry is changing color. White gold is also not hypoallergenic like platinum.

The jewelry industry has been experimenting with several alternative white precious metal alloys, none of which in my opinion have been all that desirable, until now. Palladium is a precious metal, and a member of the same group of metals as platinum and rhodium. Palladium’s history is tightly linked to that of platinum, as they are found together.

The metals were first worked by South American Indians over 1000 years ago. The Europeans discovered the unique properties of platinum after the Spanish conquest. In 1751 Platinum was first recognized as a new element. It was not until 1804 however, that palladium was separated from platinum.    

       

The use of palladium was limited until the 1970s when its properties became in demand for catalytic converters. Palladium was used in jewelry during WWII when platinum was declared a strategic metal in 1939 and its use was reserved to the military. Because the demand by consumers for white metal jewelry was high both white gold and palladium became popular substitutes.

New 950 palladium alloys have been developed that are true white, hypoallergenic, reasonably priced and have many of platinum’s characteristics.

Like gold and silver and platinum, a palladium alloy’s quality is stated as its fineness. The fineness of a palladium alloy is the amount of pure palladium parts out of a thousand total parts. An example would be a piece of jewelry stamped 950 PD would be 950 parts pure palladium and 5 parts other metals for a total of 1000 parts.

We are very excited to be, for the last year and half, one of the few retailers nationally to be offering 950 Palladium as an alternative to platinum in all of our Signature Series designs and custom work.

Till next time that is how I see the world of jewelry from Rochester, NY

 

David West Nytch CGA  www.westandcompany.com

Choosing a Jeweler

The tenth post in my series of the “Top Ten Tips” to buying jewelry is - Choosing a Jeweler.

I and my staff often tell customers you are shopping for a jeweler as much as you are shopping for jewelry. We say this because choosing the right jeweler can make all the difference between getting that “perfect piece” of jewelry, getting the very best in quality and value and having some fun to boot. Or the wrong jeweler may mean buying so-so jewelry you paid too much for along with problems that no one wants to take responsibility for. I really can not stress enough how important it is that you pay as much attention to the jeweler as the jewelry when you are shopping.

Making the investment in fine jewelry is special; no other major purchase can convey your feelings like jewelry can. As a jeweler I am often part of peoples most treasured events; an engagement, wedding or anniversary, the birth of a child and nothing gives me greater satisfaction than helping make these joyous moments all the more special.

Buying fine jewelry should be a relaxing and enjoyable experience. We often see customers come in the store who are obviously apprehensive, maybe a bit intimidated and definitely not enjoying their search. It has always been our policy to spend whatever time is necessary to make a customer feel relaxed and comfortable, and then the fun can begin - because jewelry is really wonderful stuff!  I can often hear, from my workshop in the very back of the store, the laughter coming from the sales floor. That is how it should be.

Here are some tips to help you find the right jeweler for you:

• The best place to start is to ask relatives, friends and coworkers for a referral. Who do they know, who have they had a good experience with and who has the best reputation in your community?

• Do your homework and ask lots of questions. As I said in an earlier “Top Ten” - How the question is answered is as important as the question itself. Stay away from stores who are not willing to take the time to answer all of your questions to your satisfaction, or who answer only with canned, memorized sales pitches.

• Avoid pushy sales people. It is one thing for an associate to ask for the sale; it’s their job, it is quite another for someone to push you to buy before you are ready. Pushy presentations are about making a sale, not helping you find what is right for you.

• If you are uncomfortable in a store or with a sales associate, for any reason, leave - period.

• Be honest and straight with the jeweler; they cannot help you get the very best quality and value for your money without information about your wants, needs and yes - your budget. If you are shown something more than you can afford, say so. A good jeweler will respect your budget and work with you to find the right piece in a price range you can afford. Do not be afraid to ask questions or state clearly what is on your mind, good or bad. It is true that there are those jewelers that will take the information and try to use it to their benefit not yours. A good jeweler will, however, use the same information to help you get the very best.  And it won’t take you long before you can spot the difference between the two.

• Check out the stores qualifications. Do they have a gemologist on staff? Do they have a goldsmith and if so are all repairs and services done on the premises?  What is the training of the sales associates? What is the philosophy of the owners?  Are they committed professionals or is jewelry just a way to make a buck?

• One way to determine the level of commitment and professionalism of a store is to check out the industry organizations it belongs to. Below is a listing of the organizations I feel are the most important for the jewelry shopper to be aware of.

Jewelers of America (JA) – Provides education, general support, seminars etc. for the jewelry industry. Membership is broad based. We are members and I am a past Board of Directors member in the state JA affiliate the New York State Jewelers Association.

American Gem Society (AGS) – Founded by Robert Shipley (also the founder of GIA), AGS is dedicated to knowledge, ethics and consumer protection. Membership is extremely difficult to obtain and limited to only those stores that demonstrate the highest commitment not only to gemological knowledge but also to the strictest ethical standards in the industry. Members are tested yearly which is a requirement of continued membership. Customers can also appeal directly to the AGS with unresolved complaints with member stores. We are proud members of this organization and I hold my title of Certified Gemologist Appraiser thru the AGS.

Independent Jewelers Organization (IJO) – Is the world’s largest jewelry buying group with purchasing power that equals or exceeds even the largest chain operations. Not only does this buying power benefit the customer by keeping prices on the finest quality jewelry as low as possible, IJO is also a group dedicated to professionalism, ethical business practices and education. Membership is by invitation only and restricted to only one or two of the finest stores in a market. Members are also encouraged to share ideas and knowledge and as a result IJO members are among the most forward thinking in the industry toady. We are also proud members of this organization.

Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) – Is an industry supported ethics and integrity watchdog group. Members must adhere to the JVC’s guidelines on ethics and integrity. Customers can also file a complaint with the JVC if they have a non resolved issue with a member or non member store. You can also check and to see if a store has any complaints against it before purchase. We belong and support this group as well.

Better Business Bureau (BBB) – Your local BBB is often overlooked as a resource for information when shopping for jewelry. Not only does the BBB have helpful tips on buying jewelry, customers can check and see it a company has any complaints filed against it prior to any purchase. A customer can also file a complaint against a member or non-member for an unresolved dispute. We belong to both the Rochester, NY BBB and the BBB’s Online Reliability Program.

I hope my “Top Ten Tips” has been helpful. I plan to have my “Top Ten” available as a downloadable PDF before long. As always if you have any questions, or would like further information on a specific subject, please feel free to post a comment or e-mail me.

Till next time - that is how I see the world of jewelry form Rochester, NY

David West Nytch CGA  www.westandcompany.com

Diamond - April Birthstone

Diamonds have held a special place in the world of gems for over 3000 years. Each and every diamond is completely unique with its own personality special beauty. No other gem has the brilliance, fire and hardness of a diamond. Men have sought, fought and worshiped diamonds; they were thought to have magical powers worth dying for. The name diamond comes from the Greek word adamas, which means unconquerable. This made diamonds the gem of kings throughout the centuries. A diamond was a symbol of strength, courage, bravery and invincibility. It was also thought that diamonds would scare away the devil. It is diamonds hardness that has made it a symbol of power and strength thru the ages, but its rare beauty has also made it a symbol of love and romance. Diamonds where thought to be splinters of the stars that fell to earth or the tears from the Gods. It is the Ancient Greeks that first made diamonds a symbol of love. The first diamond engagement ring was given to Mary of Burgundy in 1477 by the Archduke of Austria Maximilian.

Diamonds allure and beauty has even changed the course of history. The Kohinoor diamond, known as the “Mountain of Light”, is said to have been found 5000 years ago and was worn by the hero of the Hindu epic Mahabaharata. The diamond changed hands many times over the centuries and eventually ended up in England where it was re-cut and now is in the queen’s state crown. Another famous diamond the Orloff, was a gift of love to Catherin the Great from Prince Gregory Orloff.  France owner of the Regent (Or Pitt) but pledged it to Holland to fund Napoleons rise to power. He later reclaimed it and set it in the hilt of his state sward. And then there is the most famous of all, the Hope diamond. The Hope diamonds history is not clear until 1830 when Henry Phillip Hope brought the 45.52Ct. fancy dark blue diamond. The diamond had several owners when in 1911 it was sold to Evelyn Walsh McLean by Pierre Cartier, who may have invented the famous “curse” to help sell the exotic gem. None the less Mrs. McLean’s luck seemed to be cursed, she lost a son who was hit by a car, her husband divorced her and went insane, her daughter committed suicide and she was a morphine addict. When Mrs. Mc Lean died in 1947 the diamond was brought by Harry Winston who used the diamond to raise money for charity. In 1958 he donated the gem to the Smithsonian where you can see it today.

Diamond is pure carbon, the same as the carbon in a pencil. The only difference is how the atoms are bound. Diamonds have the simplest composition of all gems. Diamonds are also the hardest substance known. Only another diamond can scratch a diamond. They can, however, be chipped or cleaved with a sharp blow. Diamonds formed deep in the earth, billions of years ago, under the immense the heat and pressure that existed at that time in earth history. They are one of the oldest known substances in the earths crust about 3.4 billion years. Each and every diamond you see today is millions of years old. Volcanic eruptions forced the diamonds upward toward the surface where they are mined today. It take an average of about 250 tons of the diamond bearing rock known as kimberlite to find one one carat diamond. It takes a million minded diamonds in order to find a single one carat diamond. Of all the diamonds mined only 20% are gem quality. The rest is used in industrial applications.

A diamonds value is determined by the 4Cs: The Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat Weight. The 4Cs are never exactly the same on any two diamonds, every diamond is unique. The 4Cs are listed in descending order according to each Cs impact on the beauty and hence the value of the diamond.

Cut: The quality of the cut of a diamond is very important; it is what gives a diamond its unmatched brilliance and fire. There are three major components of cut; the diamonds proportions, its symmetry and its polish or finish. A well cut diamond just explodes with light and fire. A poorly cut diamond does not reflect light nearly as well and thus is often lifeless. The cut of a diamond is often confused with the shape of the diamond. No mater whether you prefer a round brilliant, oval, marquise, emerald, pear or princess cut it is the quality of the cut that unleashes the fire and brilliance that nature has hidden inside every diamond.

Color: A colorless diamond is treasured for its rarity and beauty. Some diamonds have a slightly yellow, brown to gray body color. Some feel this slight body color gives the diamond warmth. A diamonds color is graded by letters: D, E &F are colorless. G, H, I and J are considered near colorless. K, L & M are faint yellow. N to Z are diamonds with increasing strength of body color. Many do not know that diamonds beauty can occur in a rainbow of colors. A fancy colored diamond is a very rare and uniquely beautiful gem. Vibrant yellows, deep rich browns, greens, pinks, reds, light to strong rich blues, orange, purples and even black!

Clarity: The clarity of a diamond is its fingerprint. Many diamonds have, under 10x magnification, small imperfections or irregularities in the crystal that are called inclusions. The size, number, nature and position of these inclusions determine the diamonds clarity.

Carat Weight: The diamonds weight is the easiest of the 4cs to determine. One carat is based on the weight of a carob seed. The tiny seeds from a locust (carob) tree are amazingly consistent in weight. For thousands of years these seeds where used to determine a gems weight. Today a carat is a standard metric weight of 0.2 grams. A carat is divided into 100 parts called points. An example would be 0.50Ct. is fifty points or ½ a carat.

For 2000 years the only source for diamonds was India. Today major sources include Botswana, Russia, South Africa, Australia and Canada. Other sources include Namibia, Sierra Leone, Zaire, Brazil, China and India. 

Diamonds are valued not only for their beauty but also their purity. Many diamonds are not enhanced; however there are some enhancements worth noting. Diamonds can sometimes have dark unattractive inclusions which are visible to the eye. These dark inclusions can be removed with a small laser beam, and then the resulting cavity can be filled with clear resins or a glass hard material to make it nearly invisible. This same method is also used to fill inclusions that brake to the surface of the diamond, making them less noticeable. The treatment is stable, unless the diamond is exposed to extreme heat or specific chemicals, which can remove the filling. Some diamonds color can also be improved by using a new high pressure high temperature treatment. The treatment is called HPHT and must be disclosed by a tiny inscription on the diamond. Diamonds can also be colored to many different hues by using extreme heat and irradiation. This enhancement is permanent. Most black diamonds are enhanced with this method. It is also important to note that all these enhancements affect the value of the diamond and should be disclosed.

It is diamonds durability and beauty that makes them an ideal symbol of lasting love. The famous advertising tag line “A diamond is forever” says it all. A diamond is the only gem that will look as good in 100 years as it does today, and a 100 year old diamond looks as good today as it did when it was first presented. With a little bit of care a diamond will radiate its beauty thru the generations. Diamonds are safe for steam and ultrasonic cleaners, they can be cleaned with commercial jewelry cleaner or a mild soap and water along with an old toothbrush to clean the setting as well. Always rinse and dry your jewelry after cleaning.

David West Nytch CGA  www.westandcompany.com

                                                          

    

Warranties, Service and Insurance

The ninth installment of my “Top Ten Tips” to buying jewelry is Warranties, Service and Insurance.
Like returns, all three are issues of importance that are often overlooked. I like to tell my clients that jewelry is the world’s most complicated simple thing. There really is a lot more to jewelry than meets the eye. That is why it is important to know a company's warranty and service policy before making a purchase. 

Warranties
Many jewelry retailers will have some sort of warranty policy should your jewelry suffer from manufactures defects. The time limit on these warranties varies from store to store, so it is important not only to ask how long the warranty period is but also what are its limitations.

Some stores will offer “lifetime” warranties as a tactic to help close the sale. Many customers find these types of warranties comforting. Lifetime warranties are fine as long as it is understood that for the warranty to remain in effect the jewelry must be cleaned and checked, by the store that sold it, usually every 6 months (which is a good idea anyway). There are retailers that charge extra for extended warranties, but as far as I am concerned you should never pay for any warranty coverage.

If you are contemplating a jewelry purchase while on vacation or over the internet, with a company that has no physical location near your home, keep in mind that ANY work done on the jewelry by someone other than the original seller WILL VOID any warranties or recourse you may have should any problems arise.  This brings me to my next point.

Service
It is becoming increasingly common for people to buy jewelry from one company and bring it to another for service. Usually this is jewelry that has been purchased over the internet, on TV, by mail order, or from out of town. Many people assume (and that assumption is encouraged) that any jeweler will be willing to do service work and repairs on jewelery that did not come from their store. Often internet companies do not offer service on the jewelry they sell, other times they do, but the customer feels that it is quicker and more convenient to have the work preformed locally. Either way, an increasing number of jewelers are refusing to, or at the least being very selective about, servicing recently purchased jewelry they did not sell. The reason is simple; the jeweler has no control over the quality of the jewelry to be worked on, but is often expected to be the de facto warrantor.

When making a substantial investment in fine jewelry, it is always best to purchase from a jeweler who will not only provide you with a reasonable warranty against manufactures defects, but also be able to provide quality service, such as sizing or shortening, on the jewelry sold. If you are not comfortable with the warranty, are concerned with shipping jewelry back and forth, or just are not sure about the quality of service a store can provide, it is best to shop elsewhere.

Insurance
I have noticed some confusion over warranties and insurance especially when it’s a lifetime warranty. Warranties cover manufactures defects only; they do not cover loss, abuse or normal wear and tear. Like electronics, if a piece of jewelry has quality problems it usually becomes apparent soon after its purchase. The vast majority of diamond or gemstone loss that I see is due to age and customer inattention. Even if one has a lifetime warranty this is more often than not an insurance issue not a warranty issue.

If you are making a major investment in fine jewelry I strongly recommend that you have it insured. Insurance on your jewelry will cover loss and damage along with theft, which are not covered in any warranty. There are two ways to ensure your jewelry. You can purchase a rider on your homeowners or renters policy or you can buy a separate policy from a company like Jewelers Mutual. The cost is very reasonable and any better jeweler will be able to provide you with the proper insurance replacement documents you will need with your purchase.

My finial “Top Ten Tips” to buying jewelry will be on choosing a jeweler. Till then, that is how I see the world of jewelry from Rochester, NY.

David West Nytch CGA  www.westandcompany.com          

Returns

The eighth installment of my “Top Ten Tips to buying jewelry is a simple but often overlooked issue – Returns. It seems to me that it is generally assumed that when you purchase a product it can be returned, in a reasonable amount of time, for a refund. This is not always the case.

A number of years ago my wife Jody and I went to by a new TV from a local, highly regarded, electronics store. When we got the television home and turned it on the picture just did not seem to be as good as the display TV in the store, not really bad – just not as good. I figured no problem, I will just return it and get a different one. To my surprise we where told we could not return or even exchange it because we had opened the box! It never occurred to me to even ask what the return policy was when we bought the TV, I just assumed we could.

Just like I did when I purchased the TV set many consumers seem to assume that their jewelry purchase is returnable if they so decide. Return policies vary greatly so it is a very important question to ask. It is equally important that if you are not comfortable with the answer that you think about doing your business with another company.

Many independent jewelers have return policies that vary from ten to thirty days as long as the jewelry has not been altered (like sized or shortened) in any way and is in original (not worn) condition. Some of the large chain jewelry stores have return policies as long as ninety days. There are jewelry stores, however, that have a no cash refund policy but will accept exchanges and I even have one discounter in my market where every sale is finial – no refunds no exchanges.

When asking about a return policy you should keep in mind the following:

• Is the jewelry returnable for a full refund, and if so, for how long.
• Pay attention to the difference between a cash refund and exchange only policies.
• Be very wary of any return policy that makes you jump through a lot of hoops. An example is a policy that says you can return it if you find an independent appraisal that places the value at less than our (the stores) value. The catch to this kind of policy is that unless you live in a major metropolitan area, the chances of you finding an independent appraiser (one not associated with any store) without going to a great deal of trouble or expense, are slim and they know it.
• Always, I mean ALWAYS get it in writing. Many return polices are printed on the bottom or back of the stores receipt. Ours is printed on the bottom of the sales slip.

Till next time, that is how I see the world of jewelry from Rochester, NY

David West Nytch CGA  www.westandcompany.com

   

Certificates

The sixth and seventh installments of my “Top Ten Tips” to buying jewelry is about two frequently confused, but very important documents – Certificates and Appraisals.

Both of these documents have an important, but distinctly different purpose. The confusion surrounding them has led to many misinformed buying decisions and their abuse has fueled negative consumer perceptions of the jewelry industry’s integrity. A clear understanding of each documents purpose and limitations is absolutely critical to making an informed jewelry purchase.

Certificates
Although they are, in my opinion, equally important when buying a major colored gem such as a diamond, I will focus on the diamond certificate or “cirt” as they are commonly called because they have become such a major part of the diamond buying process. A diamond certificate is actually a diamond grading report (or diamond quality report or diamond certificate report), done by an independent gemological laboratory. The purpose of these reports is to provide an unbiased, independent opinion of a diamond’s quality. I say opinion because no two diamonds, or gemstones, are ever exactly identical. every diamond is unique, so diamond or gemstone grading can, within certain establish guidelines, be somewhat subjective. That said, the value to the consumer of a diamond whose grading has been determined by an independent laboratory, with no interest in the sale of that diamond, is obvious.

All grading reports are not equal. The three most common labs are American Gem Society (AGS), Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and European Gemological Laboratories (EGL). AGS and GIA are considered the strictest, and EGL believed by some to be more "relaxed" in its grading. We use all three labs, but I prefer AGS or GIA in that order. Any diamond that has a grading report from another lab, we consider it a “non cirted” diamond and disregard the report.

A diamond report will give you the following information:
• The weight of the diamond in carats.
• The diamonds measurements in millimeters.
• Information on the diamond's proportions, which is important in determining the quality of the diamonds cutting.
• An assessment of the diamonds symmetry and polish, called finish, which is also important in determining the quality of the diamonds cut.
• The diamonds color grade.
• The diamonds clarity grade.
• Any other general characteristics the grader feels are important and should be noted.
• A plot, or map, of the diamonds clarity characteristics.

A diamond report will not give you the following information:
•The diamond's value. Any grading report with a dollar figure is an appraisal and should be treated as such; more on that subject in part two about appraisals.
•If the diamond is beautiful. There are retailers out there that want you to believe
that the only two things one needs to see when buying a diamond is the grading report and the price. The internet diamond business is built on this false premise. In the industry it is called buying the paper. I have seen plenty of great looking lab reports that went with unremarkable looking diamonds and as many mediocre looking lab reports that went with spectacular looking diamonds. I don’t ever buy a diamond based on its report and price alone. I need to see it and evaluate it for myself before I make any commitment.

A diamond’s grading report, or “certification,” provides important details about the quality and thus the value of the gem. Having this information provided by a neutral third party has become, regrettably, in most cases necessary when making the purchase of a diamond. But, like I have said before on this blog, the only real way to make sure you are getting the very best is to educate yourself, ask questions and take a look at it yourself.

And that is how I see the world of jewelry form Rochester, NY

David West Nytch CGA  www.westandcompany.com